Математическое моделирование волнового режима бухты Ай-Тодор

Abstract

Investigation of wave regime of coastal water areas is practically important for safe shipping, constructing and using of coastal infrastructure objects. At the present paper statistical characteristics and space distribution of parameters of wind waves in the Ay-Todor Bay region placed on the Crimea South Coast of the Black Sea are obtained on the basis of mathematical simulation. Analysis of the wind wave parameters for the year diapason of 1979–2017 has shown that waves running from the east and having 0.5 m heights and 3.0–3.5 s mean periods are the most repeatable. The most durable storms are formed by waves coming from East–South-South-West sector in the period from December to January. The multiannual calm duration is equal to ~11 days. Estimation of extremal characteristics (height, period and length) of wind waves of different probability, which possible one time in a year, 5, 10, 25, 50 and 100 years are made. For the storm probable one time in 25 years the mean wave height near the boundary of the Ay-Todor Bay is equal to 4.5 m. For this storm the wave height of 1% probability reaches 9.6 m. For the directions of winds of 4 % regime probability which causes the most dangerous waves calculations of wave characteristics with high space resolution (~1.5 m) are carried out by using of SWAN model and nested grid technology. Fields of significant wave height, mean wave length, bottom wave orbital velocities and space distribution of wave breaking zones are analyzed. It is found that most intensive waves are generated by wind having south-east, east and south directions. Maximal bottom orbital velocities of wave current reaches of 2.5–3.5 m/s and occurs along the coast till 10 m depth. Model calculation of wave currents by using of SWASH model allowed obtained presence in the coastal zone near beach of local cyclonic eddy, which transport suspended sediments along its south edge from beach towards the sea.