Knitted fabric effects using two-coloured (marl) yarns

Abstract

Marl yarn, which is regularly used in knitwear and contributes to the scope of knitted fabrics, is often used in response to the colour effects that this yarn can offer the designer. Whilst there is relatively little understanding of the formation of such colour effects, this paper summarises a study on a marl yarn knitting technique to move the level of understanding forward. In this study, four elements: yarn type, yarn colours, knitting machine gauge, and knitting structure have each been considered within the knitting process. A set of 72 samples were knitted by combining different elements systematically. A new terminology ‘marledness’ has been defined and is referred to as: two plied or twisted yarns of different colours to form a knitted sample with colour effects that are evenly distributed in a dotted manner. If the yarns are not twisted together before knitting and tension variations occur, then the result can be a barred effect. Based on the criterion of ‘marledness’, 10 experts and 10 inexperienced observers were asked to rank the outcomes in order. These results allow for a better understanding on how to prepare the yarns and knitting process to achieve different degrees of marledness.