Influence of Brazilian vegetable oils on mechanical resistence of hair fiber

Abstract

Associating the global trend of incorporating active compounds and plants in cosmetic formulations and the vast Brazilian biodiversity, the present work aimed to study the incorporation of Brazilian vegetable oils in hair conditioner formulations, evaluating the mechanical resistance of hair fibers. The following oils were incorporated into base formulations at 5.0 % (w/w): babassu, buriti, andiroba and pequi. The formulations were applied to samples of Caucasian hair, followed by several washing steps, then the evaluation of mechanical strength. It was found that there was no statistically significant difference in mechanical resistance between samples treated with oils and the control between the first and seventh wash cycles. This fact can be explained by the possible low penetration of oils into the cortex, a region responsible for the mechanical properties of the hair fiber, since the grease composition disfavors its diffusion. The common effects of vegetable oils on the cuticle, such as filling in cracks or cavities, lubrication, and increased protein hydrophobicity cannot be excluded. The oils tested in this work were not able to raise or protect hair tresses. However, additional studies are required in order to establish the effects of oil treatments, particularly in damaged hair.