Influence functional state on special preparedness in rock climbing

Abstract

The article deals with the problem of disproportionality in a higher heart rate value when climbing relative to running loads at a lower level of oxygen consumption. The aim of the study is to determine influence of functional state on the special climbing preparedness. Study involved children aged 8-12 years in recreation stage of preparation, both sexes in the number of 24 people. To assess the voltage of regulatory systems was used a method for assessing heart rate variability. The study used a method for calculating special preparedness, which allows taking into account the number of the most difficult bouldering routes passed by an athlete during training and their number. The final score depends more on the complexity of the route. It was found that there are no pronounced stresses of the regulatory systems of the body on simple trails (below 6A according to the international classification). With the growth of specific physical loads in rock climbing (the level of trails 6A-6B), athletes face physical efforts requiring the development of coordination and physical capabilities incomparable with the previous level (trails 5A-5S). Also, this level implies more psychological stress. In further complication of specific loads in rock climbing (6C level of trails) is observed the adaptation to the psychophysical efforts. It is concluded that with the growth of functional reserve the heart rhythm increases the adaptation of hands muscles to greater oxygen absorption. Increases tissue capillarization, number of mitochondria and myoglobin in muscle fibers performing specific work in climbing.