Impact of the ENSO phenomenon on wave variability in the Pacific Ocean for wind sea and swell waves

Abstract

Using wave data from 1960 to 1990 from the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) reanalysis ERA-40 dataset and the ERA-5 reanalysis dataset (1990–2018), this paper presents a comprehensive study on the spatial and temporal variability of wind sea wave height (Hw), swell wave height (Hsw) and mixed significant wave height (Hs) in the Pacific during the warm (El Niño) and cold (La Niña) ENSO phases. The main findings show that During DJF, the Hsw is dominated by strong winds and large waves from extratropical cyclones in the North Pacific, especially from 1960 to 1990. However, from 1990–2018 these maximum values extend into the subtropical crest of the Pacific Ocean and the southeast trade winds increase during La Niña. The annual cycle of Hw, Hsw and Hs for specific points located from the west center toward the east center along the equatorial Pacific for the analyzed decades show a strong transition in the locations of the maximum and minimum values during the year. In this sense, the eastern point is more highly influenced by the swell systems that flow from the northwest and southwest of the southern hemisphere associated with the intensification of winds during the occurrence of La Niña. It is therefore not possible to determine a single period of maximum and minimum values. During the decades of 1990–2018, the difference in swell wave height during La Niña compared to El Niño increased throughout the year compared to 1960–1990. During the 1960–1990 period, the maximum values were detected in JJA for both El Niño and La Niña in an area that extends from Perú and ends toward the eastern center of the Colombian Pacific Basin.