Abstract
Surge is the name applied to wave motion with period intermediate between that of ordinary wind waves and that of the tides; say from one to sixty minutes. An additional characteristic of surge is that it is usually of very low height; perhaps 0.3 ft. is typical. This type of wave motion has been observed along the entire Pacific coast of the United States (Coast and Geodetic Survey, 1943), and in some places, notably Los Angeles Harbor, has been of serious concern to harbor authorities.
Highlights
Surge is the name applied to wave motion with period intermediate between that of ordinary wind waves and that of the tides; say from one to sixty minutes
The height of surge may be so small that, coupled with the very great wave length, the motion cannot be visually observed as a wave train, the horizontal water motion may be large, and it is this factor which accounts for the importance of surge in harbor operations
If at some initial time the wave profile is in one extreme position as shown by the solid line, a quarter wave period later the entire surface is horizontal, the water above the mean level in each crest flowing to the right and to the left to fill in half of each adjoining trough, and another quarter period later the surface is in the other extreme, as shown by the dashed line
Summary
Surge is the name applied to wave motion with period intermediate between that of ordinary wind waves and that of the tides; say from one to sixty minutes. The horizontal amplitude of water motion is substantially constant from surface to bottom, and is equal to HT ~ where H is the wave height (vertical distance from crest to trough), 2T d. This result may be verified in the case of a standing wave by reference to a diagram such as Fig. 1. The average flow ~----~ -------~ rate, Q, lS : Fig. 1 Diagram for water motion in a standing wave.
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