Abstract
At the three GPS buoys off the Sea of Japan coast of Tohoku Region, Japan, the monthly-mean wave height is higher than 2.5 m, the most frequent wave direction is WNW or NNW, and the mean wave energy flux exceeds 20 kW/m in December and January, while the wave height is lower than 1 m between June and August. The seasonal variation in the wave height is wider and that in the wave direction is narrower, compared with the GPS buoys off the Pacific coast. The ratio of the significant wave height and period at a coastal wave gauge to those at the nearby GPS buoy varies with the wave direction. An energy balance equation model with the significant wave height, period, and direction at the GPS buoy off the Yamagata Prefecture coast can estimate precisely the wave height at the coastal wave gauge site in Sakata Port.
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Schedule a callMore From: Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B2 (Coastal Engineering)
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