From historical dye to bio-colourant: Processing, identification in historical textiles and potential applications of anthraquinone-based morindone

Abstract

Recent interests of scientists in the natural dyes for not only textile colouration but also clean production of functional fabric materials, has led to the development and application of ancient nature-based sources of colourants. Historical textiles are considered as important artefacts that present the culture and society from antient time to contemporary centuries, as well as the database to develop the functional materials. Study of organic colourants in ancient textiles is an effective approach to investigate the historical dyeing science and technology, likewise evolve the bio-colourants for modern applications. Plant-based colouring matters were widely utilized since the early textile civilization until the early 20th century. Currently, several anthraquinone colourants are discovered from vegetation, especially the morindone which was widely used in traditional fabric dyeing techniques of Southeast Asia, India and the Pacific Islands. In this context, the principal focus of this study is anthraquinone-based morindone dye, started from a brief overview of natural anthraquinone dyes in historical textiles, followed by the detailed discussion on biological sources, extraction of morindin, modification to red morindone pigment, as well as the summary of mordanting and dyeing method. For intensive investigation of the practical utilization of organic morindone in historical textiles, some recent works using analytical methods including high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and surface-enhanced Raman spectroscopy (SERS), are thoroughly discussed. Furthermore, the potential antimicrobial and ultraviolet protective performances of morindone dye are analysed with respect to effective application of morindone in functional textiles.