Abstract
Objective: The present study aimed to formulate and determine the physical stability of microemulsion and W/O/W multiple emulsions, containingα arbutin, lactic acid, and niacinamide, as skin-whitening cosmetics.Methods: A skin lightening effect can also be obtained from lactic acid, which accelerates the turnover of pigmented cells in the epidermis, andfrom niacinamide, which inhibits the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes. These active ingredients were combined inmicroemulsion and W/O/W multiple emulsions dosage forms in various concentrations of Tween 80 as an emulsifier. An evaluation and physicalstability test were carried out during 12 weeks of storage at 28±2°C, 4±2°C, and 40±2°C, as well as a cycling test.Results: The results showed that a microemulsion could be prepared in 25-35% of Tween 80 (surfactant) and 10% of ethanol (co-surfactant), andthat it had globule sizes of 2.397-16.8 nm, a transparent, pseudoplastic flow, and was most stable in storage at 28±2°C. Microemulsion with 35% ofTween 80 was the most stable microemulsion formula because it had the smallest globule size, the most stable distribution profiles of globule sizes,and the highest viscosity. W/O/W multiple emulsions could formulated made with 2.5-4.5% of Tween 80 (external emulsifier) and 3% of Span 80(internal emulsifier); these emulsions had a pseudoplastic-thixotropic flow and were most stable in storage at 28±2°C.Conclusions: The formulation of multiple emulsions with 2.5% of Tween 80 was the most stable formula, with a stable distribution profile of globulesizes during 8 weeks of storage at temperatures of 28±2°C, 4±2°C, and 40±2°C.
Highlights
The skin covers the entire surface of the body and is in contact with the environment
Melanogenesis is catalyzed by tyrosinase, and several tyrosinase inhibitors have been used as skin-whitening agents in the cosmetics industry; the use of ion or tyrosinase inhibitor molecules, such as arbutin, kojic acid, mercury, and hydroquinone, will inhibit melanogenesis [2]
Alpha (α) arbutin is a whitening agent that inhibits the action of tyrosinase in melanogenesis, and the α-glucoside bond in α arbutin results in greater efficacy than the beta (β)-glucoside bond in β arbutin
Summary
Microemulsion was formulated by separately preparing the water and oil phases [11]. The water phase was divided into three parts. The remainder of the aquademineralisata was mixed with xanthan gum to form a homogeneous gel mass into the third part of the water phase. The oil phase was dispersed into the water phase and heated at 50°C, after which the two phases were mixed with a homogenizer, at a speed of 1000 rpm. The primary emulsion (W/O) was first prepared by adding 0.2 M NaCl solution containing α arbutin and niacinamide to a low hydrophile-lipophile balance surfactant solution (Span 80) at an equal volume in the oil phase, and stirring with a homogenizer (1500 rpm) for 10 minutes. Xanthan gum gel was gradually added to the W/O/W multiple emulsions, during stirring at 600 rpm until they became homogeneous. Physical stability tests were observed at temperatures of 28±2°C, 4±2°C, and 40±2°C for 12 weeks, and a cycling test was carried out for six cycles to observe the stability parameters
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