Field observations of infragravity waves and their behaviour on rock shore platforms

Abstract

ABSTRACTInfragravity wave (IGW) transformation was quantified from field measurements on two shore platforms on New Zealand's east coast, making this the first study to describe the presence, characteristics and behaviour of IGWs on rock platform coasts. Data was collected using a cross‐shore array of pressure transducers during a 22 hour experiment on Oraka shore platform and a 36 hour experiment at Rothesay Bay shore platform. A low pass Fourier filter was used to remove gravity wave frequency oscillations, allowing separate analysis of IGWs and the full wave spectrum. Offshore IGW heights were measured to be 7 cm (Oraka) and 9 cm (Rothesay Bay), which were 21% (Oraka) and 7.5% (Rothesay Bay) the height of incident wave height. At the cliff toe, significant IGW height averaged 15 cm at Oraka and 13 cm at Rothesay Bay. This increase in IGW height over the platform during both experiments is attributed to shoaling of 40 to 55% over the last 50–60 m before the cliff toe, respectively. Shoaling across the platform was quantified as the change in IGW height from the platform edge to cliff toe, resulting in a maximum increase of 1·88 and 2·63 on Rothesay Bay and Oraka platforms. IGW height at the cliff toe showed a strong correlation with incident wave height. The proportional increase in IGW height shows a strong correlation to water level on each platform. The rate of shoaling of long period waves on the shallow, horizontal platforms increased at higher water levels resulting in a super elevation in water level at the cliff toe during high tide. Greater IGW shoaling was also observed on the wider (Oraka) shore platform. Results from this study show the first measurements of IGWs on shore platforms and identify long wave motion a significant process in a morphodynamic understanding of rock coast. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.