Observation of wave transformation on a sloping type B shore platform under wind-wave and swell conditions

Abstract

An instrumented field study of the across-shore evolution of wave characteristics was conducted under wind-wave and swell-wave conditions on a sloping type B shore platform along the mesotidal, fetch-limited coast of Auckland, New Zealand, based on spectral analysis of hydrodynamic data recorded in pressure-sensor time series during a 24-h deployment on 24–25 November 2008. The results highlight the ability of the shore platform in dissipating wave energy reaching the cliff toe under wind-wave and swell-wave conditions, and the spectral redistribution of wave energy. As waves propagated onto the platform surface and towards the cliff toe, infragravity-wave energy became progressively more dominant, while gravity waves were dissipated. Wave height and period in the central sector of the platform and at the cliff toe were not markedly affected by differences in incident-wave conditions observed during the survey. The findings confirm the importance of platform morphology in modulating wave-energy delivery to the cliff toe. In contrast to previous studies, infragravity-wave height at the cliff toe did not appear to be correlated to incident-wave conditions.