Exploring Whole Cells of Rhizopus oryzae for Efficient Synthesis of Emollient Esters: Bioesters for Cosmetics

Abstract

Production of esters, organic compounds with emollient, emulsifying, and aromatic properties is growing due to high demand and their applications in the cosmetics industry. The synthesis of these compounds involves the reaction between a carboxylic acid and an alcohol, which can be catalyzed by lipases. In this context, the objective of this study was to produce mycelium-bound lipases of the fungus Rhizopus oryzae through submerged cultivation, with the aim of applying them in the synthesis of ethylene glycol oleate, ethylene glycol stearate, and isoamyl palmitate esters, which are relevant to the cosmetic industry. The influence of solvent usage (heptane), biocatalyst mass, and acid/alcohol molar ratio was evaluated in the esterification reactions. In the synthesis of the three tested esters, and in the presence of heptane solvent, an equimolar ratio (1:1) of each acid and alcohol with a concentration of 0.01 mol L-1 was utilized. The reactions were performed in agitated Erlenmeyer flasks at 40 °C with an agitation speed of 200 rpm. The lipolytic biomass of Rhizopus oryzae showed better performance in the synthesis of isoamyl palmitate, achieving a maximum conversion of 83% in 24 h of reaction using 0.30 g of lipolytic biomass and the solvent heptane. In addition, it was observed that higher concentrations of catalyst biomass (0.45 g) and lower molar ratios (1:1.5) of acid to alcohol resulted in a higher conversion of isoamyl palmitate ester, reaching conversions of 48.59 and 83.11%, respectively.