Abstract
In coastal dynamics, large-scale eddies transport and spread smaller turbulent vortices both towards the sea surface, thus contributing to the processes of air-water gas transfer, and towards the sea bottom, inducing sediment pick-up and resuspension. The mechanical role of the breaking-induced vortices to the redistribution of turbulence and turbulent kinetic energy is still unclear and needs a more thorough study, possibly supported by more measurements in this field. Based on this, the present paper aims to investigate the effects of experimental breaking waves in the surf zone. Two regular breaking waves, a spiller and a plunger, which propagate on a fixed slope, were generated in a laboratory channel and were examined shoreward to the breaker line. The measurements of their velocities in the cross-shore plane were assessed by means of a 2D Laser Doppler Anemometer. At the same time and location, elevation data were also acquired using a resistive wave gauge. Here, the principal characteristics are addressed in terms of turbulent intensities, turbulent kinetic energy, length scales and coherent motions. Our results could thus contribute to better define conceptual models used in typical engineering applications in coastal areas.
Highlights
Vorticity and turbulence associated with breaking waves make the surf zone of special significance within near-shore dynamics and costal sediment transport [1,2,3,4,5,6]
Many studies showed that the turbulent flow due to wave breaking is characterized by the formation of large-scale vortex structures which swirl around each other and feature a variety of shapes, named coherent structures [1,7,8,9,10]
Predicting near shore morphodynamics requires a thorough knowledge of their formation and spreading throughout the water column, as well as their interactions with bottom sediments
Summary
Vorticity and turbulence associated with breaking waves make the surf zone of special significance within near-shore dynamics and costal sediment transport [1,2,3,4,5,6]. Many studies showed that the turbulent flow due to wave breaking is characterized by the formation of large-scale vortex structures which swirl around each other and feature a variety of shapes, named coherent structures [1,7,8,9,10]. They primarily control sediment movements and cross-shore morphodynamic evolution. A thorough knowledge of the formation and spreading of these coherent structures in the surf zone is expected to better explain their interactions with bottom sediments and their effects on a tracers’ diffusion [7]
Sign-in/Register to view highlights & summary Sign-in/Register to access full text options 
Talk to us
Join us for a 30 min session where you can share your feedback and ask us any queries you have
Schedule a callDisclaimer: All third-party content on this website/platform is and will remain the property of their respective owners and is provided on "as is" basis without any warranties, express or implied. Use of third-party content does not indicate any affiliation, sponsorship with or endorsement by them. Any references to third-party content is to identify the corresponding services and shall be considered fair use under The CopyrightLaw.
