Expanded authenticity? Changing standards for identifying longjing tea

Abstract

Due to the power of premium brand identities, West Lake Longjing tea (西湖龙井茶), the most famous representative of Chinese tea varieties, faces competition around the matter of its authenticity. The 2001 adoption of production area classifications by local governments promoting rural economic and social development has fueled the expansion of the Longjing tea brand. By introducing the idea that Longjing tea (龙井茶) could be identified with areas outside West Lake, this policy has made room for new views of varietal authenticity. For China's new consumer society, traditional standards of authentic taste and appearance have also been challenged. Based on long-term observations and interviews, this paper explores the conflict and compatibility between politics and markets, land and technology, tradition and innovation. It analyzes how Longjing tea has created a social narrative for “expanded authenticity", which provides a case for the development of China's consumer society under market demand and policy management.