Ewish center of lacemaking in Sasov of Eastern Galicia of the second half of the 19th - the first third of the 20th century: history and artistic features

Abstract

Jewish center of lacemaking in Sasov, founded in the mid-nineteenth century by Marcus Leib Margulis. In process of research were used archive materials, sources of the first third of twentieth century, particular works of Peter Kontny, publications in periodicals and works of leading researchers of Jewish textiles. The sources of research are art objects of Jewish lacemaking from museum and private collections. It was founded that in village of Sasiv in period of the heyday of production in the second half of nineteenth century, was working near 250 masters, who made elements of ritual costumes. The main assortment of products was Atara for Thales, men's kippah, women's shabbat hats and bibs. Technique of making lace of the Sasov center is called “Spanier Arbeit”. The origin of the term is quite controversial today; it also is associated with the definition of “Spanish Work” and with Yiddish terminology “wickerwork”. Lace of Sasov belongs to the braded type of silver threads with flat cross section – tinsel. The article analyzes the artistic features of Atara – rectangular “crown”, “collar" which was sewn to the prayers veil of the thallas in the part which covered the head. The tradition of performing atars has a long history that is confirmed by different miniatures of medieval books, portraits of Jews in ritual costumes, as well as saved samples. The decoration of atara is dominated by plant ornament, usually in Baroque style. The images of roses, sunflowers, pomegranates, rosettes have a deep symbolic meaning in Jewish culture and appeals to biblical and Talmudic texts as well as oral tradition. High skills of making the lace and their artistic features indicate the professionalism of cell masters. Preserved monuments are unique examples of decorative art of Galician Jews.