Abstract
The aim of this study was to optimize the lipsticks formulation according to the physical properties and sensory attributes and investigate the relationship between instrumental and sensory analyses and evaluate the influence of the main ingredients, beeswax and oil, with analysis of lipsticks properties. Central composite design was used to optimize the mixture of oils and beeswax and cocoa butter for formulation of lipsticks. Antioxidant activity was evaluated by DPPH free radical scavenging method spectrophotometrically. Physical properties of lipsticks melting point were determined in a glass tube; the hardness was investigated with texture analyzer. Sensory analysis was performed with untrained volunteers. The optimized mixture of sea buckthorn oil and grapeseed oil mixture ratio 13.96 : 6.18 showed the highest antioxidative activity (70 ± 0.84%) and was chosen for lipstick formulation. According to the sensory and instrumental analysis results, optimal ingredients amounts for the lipstick were calculated: 57.67% mixture of oils, 19.58% beeswax, and 22.75% cocoa butter. Experimentally designed and optimized lipstick formulation had good physical properties and high scored sensory evaluation. Correlation analysis showed a significant relationship between sensory and instrumental evaluations.
Highlights
Safety of various cosmetic products has become a major trend in recent years
Yellow beeswax was purchased from Bitute, Lithuania; cocoa butter was purchased from Henry Lamotte GmbH, Germany; jojoba oil, grapeseed (Vitis vinifera L.) oil, and sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) oil were from Biokosmetikos Akademija, Lithuania; olive (Olea europaea L.) oil was manufactured by Anira, Spain; castor (Ricinus communis L.) oil was manufactured by Henry Lamotte Oils, Germany; cedar (Pinus sibirica) balm oil was manufactured by Alsu, Russia; essential oil of thyme (Thymus vulgaris L.) was manufactured by Aromatika, Ukraine, and was purchased from a local market
Grapeseed oil and sea buckthorn oil were selected for the lipstick formulation due to their highest inhibition percentage
Summary
Safety of various cosmetic products has become a major trend in recent years. The abundant composition of cosmetics is of increasing concern for consumer’s health and environmentally friendly products for the earth. Consumers are searching for natural-based cosmetic products to avoid allergic reactions and any side effects and for the safety of their health and the important criteria are natural raw materials [1]. Hardness and melting point are the main physical properties important for the stability of lipstick in all usage period and transportation. These characteristics can vary according to the composition of ingredients [3]. Response surface central composite design was applied in order to investigate the relationship between composition, physical properties, and sensory analysis of consumers, which can be the most important factor [5]
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