Empirical estimation of the breaker index using a stereo camera system

Abstract

To understand the wave-breaking phenomenon that affects coastal structures and sediment transport, various experiments have been conducted using an experimental wave flume equipped with point observation instruments including wave gauges. However, it has been still challenging to precisely measure the wave propagation in the breaking region. In this study, the water surface elevation is observed using stereo cameras, and a modified index for the breaking wave height is proposed. Water surface fields are retrieved spatially and temporally from synchronized stereo images using the wave acquisition stereo system (WASS), and then the breaking wave height, location, and wave front slope angle (WFSA) are analyzed. For the verification of the camera system, a three-dimensional reconstructed map is compared with the wave elevation measured by the wave gauge. The critical WFSA is empirically formulated and used to modify the breaker index. We verify the proposed breaker index formula by applying the index to the spilling breakers with a wide range of relative water depths. The prediction of the breaker index that rapidly decreases under high relative water depth conditions is considerably improved. Using the proposed critical WFSA formula and modified breaker index, the breaking wave heights in coastal areas can be accurately estimated.