Effects of low‐level hydrophobic substitution on conditioning properties of cationic cellulosic polymers in shampoo systems

Abstract

A new class of cationic conditioning polymers (Polymer SL) has been prepared and evaluated in shampoo formulations. Polymer SL is a family of high viscosity quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC) polymers with cationic substitution of trimethyl ammonium and dimethyldodecyl ammonium (Figure 1). SL compositions benefit from hydrophobic character to deliver superior conditioning performance in hair care applications. At the same time, low levels of hydrophobes have been chosen to assure good compatibility with surfactant systems without the complications of associative thickening. The polymers have been evaluated in clear shampoo formulations and two-in-one silicone containing shampoos using objective lab methods and subjective panel evaluation on hair tresses. Commercial conditioning polymers: Polyquaternium-10 (PQ-10) (UCARE Polymer LR-30M) and Guar Hydroxypro-pyltrimethylammonium Chloride (Jaguar C-13S) were used as performance benchmarks. The new hydrophobically-modified cationic polymers demonstrated superior performance in all major categories of conditioning and showed improved silicone deposition from two-in-one systems. Moreover, they retained other good qualities of their PQ-10 structural analogs such as enabling crystal clear formulations and showing no build-up or volume-down effects on hair. These new olymers were also found to be efficient conditioning agents in different surfactant systems with or without silicones.