Effect of Hairiness on Fabric Colour Characteristics

Kateryna Smykalo,Oksana Zakora,

doi:10.14502/tekstilec2020.64.276-286

Abstract

Designing the colour appearance of textiles requires taking into account their surface properties, hairiness among others. The villi protruding on the surface not only affect the quality of textile dyeing, but also largely determine its optical properties and the colour phenomenon. The analysis of studies of optical properties shows that the influence of hairiness on the phenomenon of colour is not well understood and that the amount of hairiness at which colour changes become significant for human perception remains indefinable. In this work, we studied the change in colour characteristics depending on the change in the hairiness of woollen fabrics, comparing “yarn – raw fabric”, “yarn – raised fabric”, “raw fabric – raised fabric”. Hairiness was estimated by the hairiness index, which was obtained from the analysis of sample microphotographs of yarn and fabric using software. The value of colour characteristics (lightness, chroma and colour difference) was measured in the CIELAB colour space (1976) using a spectrophotometer. The obtained experimental results showed that the changes in lightness and saturation of textile materials from the index of its hairiness are directly proportional. However, the value of changes is different for raw and napped fabrics, undyed and dyed samples, the initial colour hue and raw material composition also making certain adjustments. This study analysed the colour difference and established the level of variation in hairiness at which the colour mismatch between woollen fabrics becomes visually noticeable. The results of the study can be used to predict the colour and design the optical properties of fabrics for weaving and finishing.

Highlights

The regular change of popular colours and their shades is relatively typical of the modern fashion industry; compliance with the trend colour is one of the key properties of products that ensure the commercial success of the textile production
We studied the change in colour characteristics depending on the change in the hairiness of woollen fabrics, comparing “yarn – raw fabric”, “yarn – raised fabric”, “raw fabric – raised fabric”
Studies [14,15,16,17] show that hairiness increases the lightness of the surface, these results are not sufficient to determine the colour of fabrics, since the amount of hairiness at which the changes in lightness become significant for human perception remains uncertain

Summary

Introduction

The regular change of popular colours and their shades is relatively typical of the modern fashion industry; compliance with the trend colour is one of the key properties of products that ensure the commercial success of the textile production. Reproducing the desired colour in a textile product is a complex challenge, which includes choosing the optimal ratio of the dye formulation, and predicting the appearance of colour in the texture of the finished material [1]. The layer of villi affects the adhesion of the dye, increasing the hydrophobicity of the textile [2,3,4,5,6]. The hairiness layer significantly affects the appearance of the finished product, as it is the main surface property [8]. Predicting the colour of textiles, especially for fuzzy fabrics such as fleece or flannel, continues to be difficult It is worth noting another difficulty in designing colours for textiles that are made from dyed yarn and are nap. The aim of this research was to study the effect of hairiness on colour indices in fabrics made from undyed and dyed yarn with a different amount of hairiness

Objectives

Results

Conclusion