Abstract
In this study, the natural dye was extracted from Spartium junceum L. (SJL) flowers and applied on cellulose (cotton) and protein (wool) fabric. Fabrics were pre-mordant with alum prior to the dyeing process. Considering the global requirements on zero waste and green policy, the dyeing process was intended to be as much as possible environmentally friendly but still effective. Therefore, mordant concentration was optimized due to the reduction of the negative impact. The efficiency of the dyeing process was investigated by examination of fabrics’ color characteristics and colorfastness to washing properties. In this paper, we have proved that the extracted dye from Spartium junceum L. is an acidic dye (mordant dye) which is more applicable for the treatment of wool fabrics. In this paper, it was proved that phytochemicals responsible for coloring are part of the flavonoids group. The UV absorption spectra of extracted dye show 4 bands in the region of λmax 224, 268, 308 and 346 nm which are ascribed to bands characteristic for flavonoids. Wool fabric pre-mordant with 3% alum and dyed shows great chromatic (C*) properties where C* value is in a range from 47.76 for unwashed samples to 47.50 for samples after 5 washing cycles and color hue (h°) is in a range 82.13 for unwashed samples to 81.52 for samples after 5 washing cycles. The best result regarding the colorfastness properties is shown by the wool sample treated with 3% alum after 5 washing cycles (total difference in color (Delta E*) = 0.87). These results confirm that metal (Al) from alum mordant make strong chemical bonds with wool substrate and dye since Delta E* values decrease in comparison to Delta E* values of the cotton samples treated the same way. The results revealed it is possible to reduce the concentration of mordant up to 3% and obtain satisfactory results regarding the colorfastness. Nevertheless, future research will go in the direction of replacing synthetic mordant with a more environmentally friendly one.
Highlights
Since an interdisciplinary approach is desirable within the science community, this research comprises several specific objectives, which seeks to find new solutions for a better understanding of the investigated topic
Samples labels were defined according to material composition, dye extraction, premordanting and washing process: C/W_E_Me_Wx, where C/W stands for fiber type (C for cotton and W for wool fabric), E stands for the extraction process of dye solutions (1E for 1st extraction, 2E for 2nd extraction and 3E for 3rd extraction), Me is mordant concentration and Wx is number of washing cycles
The paper proved that the extracted dye from Spartium junceum L. is an acidic dye that is successfully used for the treatment of protein fibers
Summary
Since an interdisciplinary approach is desirable within the science community, this research comprises several specific objectives, which seeks to find new solutions for a better understanding of the investigated topic. (SJL) or Spanish broom is a Mediterranean plant, which has been used as a textile raw material since ancient times. Due to increased awareness of the environmental and health hazards and cognition of toxicity and carcinogenicity of synthetic dyes products, most commercial dyers have started to search up again for renewable and sustainable natural dyes derived from the plant, animal and mineral sources in accordance with EU regulations. Natural dyes can be classified based on their chemical structure, origin, method of application and color. Based on the chemical structure they belong to classes of indigoids, anthraquinonoids, ketones, imines, betalains, anthocyanidins, flavonoids, carotenoids or chlorophylls Based on their method of application they can be classified as mordant dyes, direct dyes, vat dyes, acid dyes, basic dyes and disperse dyes [14,15]. Icneltluhilsospeaapnedr,pthroetepionsfsaibirliictsywofastheevaulsuaagtedo.fTthe naoqvuelotuysoef xthtriascwt forrokmistihnethSJeL dfilroewctercsonastraibnuattiounratlodwyaerfdosrtthhee pcerilnlucliopslesaonfdapcroirtceuinlafraberciocns owmasyewvahleuraeteeda.cThhpeanrotvoefltyheof ptlhainstwisosrkucisceinsstfhuelldyiruetcitliczoendtrfiobrutthioenptroowdaurcdtisotnheofpfiribnecripslaensdo/f aorcitreccuhlanriceaclotneoxmtilyesw, shoeraesefaocrh thpearetxotfrathcteiopnlaonftnisatsuurcaclesdsyfuesll.y utilized for the production of fibers and/or technical textiles, so as for the extraction of natural dyes
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