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Abstract
The complex chaîne opératoire of ancient textile production in various stages has been frequently discussed by textile scholars. According to documentary papyri, textile manufacturing represented the highest taxed industry after agriculture. This emphasises its importance as a significant sector in the ancient economy. A highly specialised branch within the chaîne opératoire is the dyeing industry. Ancient dyers used natural and animal dyestuffs, as well as different dyeing techniques to achieve their colourful results. They were also aware of the specific properties of the different textile fibres. In ancient times, wool and linen were the characteristic materials for manufacturing textiles, but archaeological and papyrological sources further attest the use of cotton, silk and even goat hair. Depending on the particular fibre properties and the natural pigmentation, different results, colours and hues could be achieved. Preserved textiles show that mainly wool was dyed, but there are dyed linen textiles as well.
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