Abstract
This project aimed to apply eco-friendly extraction methods to Crocus sativus L. by-product (flowers without stigmas i.e., tepals composed of petals and sepals) to recover extracts with high antioxidant capacity and polyphenol content, to be used in cosmetic products. Flowers grown in two different Italian regions (Sample 1—Alba in Piemonte, north of Italy and Sample 2—Sibillini in Marche, centre of Italy) were subjected for the first time to different eco-friendly microwave-mediated green solvents extractions (MGSE) andquali-quantitative determination in antioxidant molecules. Firstly, the extracts from Sample 1 were selected according to their total phenol content (TPC) by Folin–Ciocalteu’s assay and antioxidant capacity (AC) by spectrophotometric assays. Then, according to preliminary results, MGSE carried out in ethanol 70°, water, and glycerin were selected as the most performing methods and applied to both Samples 1 and 2. The best results were obtained using green solvents, such as water or ethanol 70°, for the samples coming from Marche. The identification and quantification of phenolic compounds, belonging to anthocyanins and flavonols classes, was performed by using UPLC-DAD-ESI-MS. Concerning flavonols content, the most abundant analyte is kaempferol 3-O-sophoroside and the extract in water from Sample 1 showed the higher amount of flavonols, reaching the concentration of 25.35 mg of kaempferol 3-O-glucoside equivalent per gram of tepals DW of raw material. Among anthocyanins, the most abundant was delphinidin 3,5-O-diglucoside and the high concentration of anthocyanin was detected in water and ethanol extract. Two new compounds, myricetin-di-glucoside and primflasine, were identified for the first time in Crocus sativus L. by-product by high-resolution mass spectrometry (HRMS). The green batches obtained by extraction were thus characterized and evaluated for their biological potential and safety in keratinocyte HaCaT cells. The extracts were not cytotoxic up to 0.03 mg/mL. The water and ethanol 70° extracts were the most effective in counteracting oxidative stress induced by H2O2 and UVA exposure and reduced cytotoxicity induced by UVB exposure. The water extract was also able to significantly reduce cytotoxicity induced by sodium dodecyl sulphate-induced damage. Taken together, these results suggest a potential use of these waste materials as cosmeceutical preparations such as antiaging, and as anti-skin irritation formulation by-products.
Highlights
Interest in the development of sustainable processes for the production or extraction of bioactive compounds from agro-food organic waste has recently increased due to the potential applications of these compounds in food, cosmetics, and pharmaceuticals [1,2].The spice saffron, with its unique aroma, color, and flavor, consists of the stigmas of Crocus sativus L. (Iridaceae)
The highest values for ABTS, Ferric Reducing Antioxidant Capacity (FRAP), and DPPH were observed for the glycerol extracts for both the Alba and Sibillini regions, and the lowest ABTS, FRAP, and DPPH values were those for water extract
Since all these values may be affected by different molecules, an indepth identification and quantitation of the polyphenols, especially the anthocyanis and flavonols contained in the different extracts, is necessary
Summary
Interest in the development of sustainable processes for the production or extraction of bioactive compounds from agro-food organic waste has recently increased due to the potential applications of these compounds in food, cosmetics, and pharmaceuticals [1,2].The spice saffron, with its unique aroma, color, and flavor, consists of the stigmas of Crocus sativus L. (Iridaceae). The spice saffron, with its unique aroma, color, and flavor, consists of the stigmas of Crocus sativus L. There are several other regions in Italy were the Crocus sativus L. is started to be cultivated [6], in particular the Sibillini area in the Marche region due to a project named “Programma Leader plus 2000~2006” based on the exploitation of small farms that through the production of this spice they might have the possibility to reflect from the commercial point of view the quality of the area. The by-product of Crocus sativus L. were compared for the first time with the ones cultivated in Alba (Piemonte region). In collaboration with local farmers and cosmetic laboratories of Marche and Piemonte, an experimental research was started to exploit by-product from Crocus sativus L. to be used as potential active ingredients for cosmetic formulations
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