Development of Mushroom-Based Cosmeceutical Formulations with Anti-Inflammatory, Anti-Tyrosinase, Antioxidant, and Antibacterial Properties.

Oludemi Taofiq,Maria Filomena Barreiro,Isabel C F R Ferreira,Lillian Barros,Ricardo C Calhelha,Maria José Alves,Ana M González-Paramás,Sandrina A Heleno

doi:10.3390/molecules21101372

Oludemi Taofiq, Maria Filomena Barreiro + Show 6 more

Open Access

https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules21101372

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Abstract

The cosmetic industry is in a constant search for natural compounds or extracts with relevant bioactive properties, which became valuable ingredients to design cosmeceutical formulations. Mushrooms have been markedly studied in terms of nutritional value and medicinal properties. However, there is still slow progress in the biotechnological application of mushroom extracts in cosmetic formulations, either as antioxidants, anti-aging, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory agents or as hyperpigmentation correctors. In the present work, the cosmeceutical potential of ethanolic extracts prepared from Agaricus bisporus, Pleurotus ostreatus, and Lentinula edodes was analyzed in terms of anti-inflammatory, anti-tyrosinase, antioxidant, and antibacterial activities. The extracts were characterized in terms of phenolic acids and ergosterol composition, and further incorporated in a base cosmetic cream to achieve the same bioactive purposes. From the results obtained, the final cosmeceutical formulations presented 85%–100% of the phenolic acids and ergosterol levels found in the mushroom extracts, suggesting that there was no significant loss of bioactive compounds. The final cosmeceutical formulation also displayed all the ascribed bioactivities and as such, mushrooms can further be exploited as natural cosmeceutical ingredients.

Highlights

Skin aging is caused by an intrinsic or natural mechanism affecting the skin and other body organs related to hormonal changes occurring with age, and by extrinsic mechanisms associated with ultraviolet radiation exposure, which causes free radical species generation [1]
P. ostreatus showed the highest content in phenolic acids and cinnamic acid, followed by L. edodes and, A. bisporus
Protocatechuic acid was only identified in L. edodes, while A. bisporus only revealed the presence of cinnamic acid

Summary

Introduction

Skin aging is caused by an intrinsic or natural mechanism affecting the skin and other body organs related to hormonal changes occurring with age, and by extrinsic mechanisms associated with ultraviolet radiation exposure, which causes free radical species generation [1]. This environmental stress generated from ROS and reactive nitrogen species (RNS), combined with increased secretion of inflammatory mediators and enzyme expression (e.g., collagenase and elastase), causes inflammation and decreases the tensile strength and elasticity of the skin [3]. Natural ingredients for skin care are becoming popular due to their protective and defensive role against generation of free radicals and reduced production of oxidative enzymes, such as inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) associated with inflammation and inflammatory diseases; collagenase and elastase that usually cause degradation of the extracellular matrix of the skin; and tyrosinase, the enzyme that catalyzes the most important step in melanin biosynthesis [5]. An increasing interest in finding natural sources able to inhibit these enzymes, and using them as potential cosmetic ingredients in the design of creams or lotions for topical application is an interesting topic [6]

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