DEVELOPMENT OF MICROEMULSION AND WATER/OIL/WATER MULTIPLE EMULSION CONTAINING BETA-ARBUTIN, LACTIC ACID, AND SODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE

Silvia Surini,Nur Mpn Negoro

doi:10.22159/ijap.2020.v12s1.ff048

Silvia Surini, Nur Mpn Negoro

Open Access

https://doi.org/10.22159/ijap.2020.v12s1.ff048

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Abstract

Objective: In addition to lactic acid and sodium ascorbyl phosphate, which have whitening effects, beta-arbutin is a safe whitening agent for skin.Combining these three substances should reduce the concentration of each one in a formula and achieve an optimal whitening effect. In this study,microemulsions and water/oil/water (W/O/W) multiple emulsions were applied to produce a formula containing these whitening agents.Methods: All the active ingredients were formulated into microemulsions and W/O/W multiple emulsions with different concentrations of Tween 80and Span 80 as emulsifiers to obtain a stable formula. Twelve-week physical stability studies were performed for every formula at low (4±2°C), room(28±2°C), and high (40±2°C) temperatures.Results: The produced microemulsions were transparent with a mean droplet size of 15.50 nm. In addition, the W/O/W multiple emulsions containeddroplets within droplets, which were dispersed in a continuous phase with an inner droplet size of 0.15 μm and an outer droplet size of 0.37 μm. TheW/O/W multiple emulsions showed pseudoplastic thixotropic flow properties. Furthermore, the microemulsions were stable at low (4±2°C) androom (28±2°C) temperatures, while the W/O/W multiple emulsions were stable at room (28±2°C) and high (40±2°C) temperatures.Conclusion: It was concluded that the combination of beta-arbutin, lactic acid, and sodium ascorbyl phosphate was suitable for formulating intomicroemulsions as well as W/O/W multiple emulsions as whitening cosmetic products.

Highlights

Many women in tropical countries want to have white skin because this shows that they are beautiful and having white skin is an essential need [1,2]
Lactic acid, and sodium ascorbyl phosphate are expected to reduce the concentration of each active ingredient, and this combination can be formulated into a stable dosage form to provide an optimum whitening effect
A study by Peira et al tested the stability of a microemulsion containing arbutin and kojic acid with perfume toward sun exposure, and the results showed that the microemulsion was more stable than a conventional emulsion [11]

Summary

Introduction

Many women in tropical countries want to have white skin because this shows that they are beautiful and having white skin is an essential need [1,2] They have tried many ways of obtaining white skin; whitening cosmetics have become an important commodity [1]. Alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) compounds and derivatives of Vitamin C show whitening effects and are considered safe for skin [5,6]. Derivatives of Vitamin C in the ascorbyl form, such as sodium ascorbyl phosphate, prevent skin aging by increasing collagen formation and exhibit whitening activity because of their role in preventing melanin formation [9]. Lactic acid, and sodium ascorbyl phosphate are expected to reduce the concentration of each active ingredient, and this combination can be formulated into a stable dosage form to provide an optimum whitening effect. Microemulsions and multiple emulsions are dosage forms with good stability

Methods

Results

Discussion

Conclusion