Abstract
This work deals with development and evaluation of MFQ protective formulation, which contains two organic filters, namely: octyl-p-methoxycinnamate (OMC) and benzophenone-3 (BP-3); a photostabilizing agent called ethylhexylmethoxycrylene (EHMCR) and keratin particles. The MFQ formulation was evaluated in order to measure its pH, spin-spin lattice relaxation time (T2H), occlusivity factor, formulation efficacy, photostability and skin permeation, as well as keratin particle properties. Keratin particle size increased when incorporated to formulation, however, it did not affect pH. The MFQ formulation was found to be photostable and photoprotective, as evidenced by sunlight photostability test, sun protection factor (SPF), UVA/UVB ratio and critical wavelength. Interaction between keratin particles and active substances (OMC, BP-3 and EHMCR) was evidenced by T2H measurements. Evidences suggest that keratin reduces the permeation of both UV filters employed along this study, therefore, it can be stated that keratin has a promising potential for use in sunscreen formulations.
Highlights
Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is responsible for a variety of acute and chronic effects on the skin, which could be either positive acute effects as D vitamin synthesis or negative, such as erythema; on the other hand, chronic UV radiation effects include photoaging and photocarcinogenesis, caused by immunosuppression induction and mutations
The average diameter and dispersity (Đ) of isolated keratin particles and keratin particles included in MFQ formulation were evaluated
The MFQ formulation containing the OMC, BP-3, the photostabilizing agent (EHMCR) and keratin particles was effective in photoprotection, as evidenced by sun protection factor (SPF) value, UVA/UVB ratio and critical wavelength
Summary
Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is responsible for a variety of acute and chronic effects on the skin, which could be either positive acute effects as D vitamin synthesis or negative, such as erythema; on the other hand, chronic UV radiation effects include photoaging and photocarcinogenesis, caused by immunosuppression induction and mutations. An enhancement of public awareness concerning the damaging effects of UV radiation has resulted in an increased interest in sunscreens. Photoprotective agents can be classified into organic and inorganic; inorganic sunscreens (e.g. zinc oxide and titanium oxide) act by absorbing or reflecting UV radiation whereas organic sunscreens are classified into UVA, UVB or wide-spectrum absorbers; the absorption at specific UV radiation wavelengths depends on the chemical structure of the organic sunscreen active molecules (CerqueiraCoutinho et al, 2015; Cerqueira-Coutinho, Santos, Mansur, 2015). The sunscreen product safety is related to the evaluation of the effects of photoprotective active agents in the skin, as well as the possibility of cutaneous permeation, which could imply product leaking into the bloodstream, generating systemic toxicity (Cerqueira-Coutinho, et al, 2015; CerqueiraCoutinho, Santos, Mansur, 2015). Sunscreens should be retained on the upper layer of the skin, known as the stratum corneum, where chromophores can absorb or reflect the UV radiation, preventing skin damage
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