Determination of ease allowances included in pattern construction methods

Abstract

Construction of the garment pattern block provides the basic shapes for manipulation and development. These blocks are often developed using a construction method, allowing at least the minimum levels of ease to satisfy comfort and function. However, current construction methods rarely explicitly state the levels of ease incorporated into the pattern, making it difficult to retain objective controls. This research outlines methods and results to determine the levels of ease incorporated into some widely used pattern construction methods. Similar bodice and sleeve patterns from the selected sources are constructed from common body dimensions. These patterns are then compared to the original body dimensions and ease levels are established. Comparison of results indicates that each construction method produces blocks with differing shapes and levels of ease. The results of ease assessment can be used for more objective selection of appropriate blocks and to support the development of direct drafting methods.