Cusp and Mega Cusp Observations on a Mixed Sediment Beach

Abstract

AbstractFrequent surveys using modern remote sensing technology enable observations of subaerial beach morphology and surface sediment type (sand vs. gravel/cobble) with unprecedented spatial and temporal resolution. Here we show weekly terrestrial mobile light detection and ranging (LiDAR) observations of cusps on a mixed sediment beach, consisting of sand and gravel/cobble, spanning ∼2 km alongshore. Surface gravel/cobble coverage varied from almost complete to none (e.g., all sand), over times ranging from weekly to seasonal, and with location. Cusp morphologies also varied in space and time. Cusps with 11–20 m alongshore wavelengths (L) primarily developed in winter and were composite with gravel‐cobble horns and sandy bays. Cusps with L between 21 and 40 m developed throughout the year and were either composite or entirely sandy. Previously not reported, composite mega cusps (L between 200 and 400 m) occurred in winter. Composite cusps, with L between 11 and 40 m, were clustered in gravel/cobble‐rich mega cusp bays and absent on the sandier mega cusp horns.