Abstract

The present study aims to analyze how Brazilian fashion brands, projected in the discourse on the role of the one who enunciates, position their collections (from fashion shows to advertisement campaigns) as a value-object to consumer-subjects, building a simulacrum of identity in contemporary Brazilian fashion. Using the theoretical references of discursive semiotics, notably the postulations by Algirdas Julien Greimas and his collaborators, the analysis brought up that intertextuality and irony are used by the enunciator as an important component of meaning, incorporating and refreshing other cultural texts in his own textual constructions. It was concluded that this knowledge donates competence to the consumer-subject, empowering such consumer to interfere in the fading of meaning in everyday life.

Highlights

  • In the 80’s, when fashion in Brazil was merely a subject for female magazines and social gossips, young designer Ronaldo Fraga was drawing party dresses for clients in a textile shop in his hometown, thanks to his abilities with colored pencils

  • The designer showed seven collections at Fashion Week/House of Creators before entering Brazilian Official Fashion Calendar in 2001. He currently presents his collections at São Paulo Fashion Week and his work is characterized for the continuous interlacement of certain cultural inputs so as to extend self-esteem and to add value to consumer beliefs

  • The theoretical and methodological approach that guide our thoughts come from French discursive semiotics, the so called École de Paris, notably the concepts established by Algirdas Julien Greimas and his collaborators, whose thoughts aim to decipher the proceedings that build meaning

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Summary

Introduction

In the 80’s, when fashion in Brazil was merely a subject for female magazines and social gossips, young designer Ronaldo Fraga was drawing party dresses for clients in a textile shop in his hometown, thanks to his abilities with colored pencils At that time, he didn’t have the faintest idea on how many meters of cloth a certain dress he draw would require, nor did he dream of being a part of the national fashion scene. He currently presents his collections at São Paulo Fashion Week and his work is characterized for the continuous interlacement of certain cultural inputs so as to extend self-esteem and to add value to consumer beliefs His looks present elements of various cultures - recognizable and already assimilated in other circumstances - incorporated and transformed so as to lose their connections with the original situation in order to organize a distinct sense effect and look original. This procedure of structuring a different meaning from a conjunction of speeches is known in structural semiotics as intertextuality

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