Abstract

Collagen and its derivative proteins have been widely used as a major component for cosmetic formulations as a natural ingredient and moisturizer. Most commercially available collagens are animal-derived collagen type I and other forms of collagen, such as type III collagen, are far less prevalent in animals, making extraction and purification extremely difficult and expensive. Here, we report the production of a 50 kDa protein produced in yeast that is 100% identical to the N-terminus of the human type III collagen. This recombinant protein has a larger molecular weight than most incumbent recombinant collagen proteins available for personal care applications. We report the industrialization of both the fermentation and purification processes to produce a final recombinant protein product. This final protein product was shown to be safe for general applications to human skin and compatible with common formulation protocols, including ethanol-based formulations. This recombinant collagen type III protein was also shown to uniquely stimulate both collagen type I and type III production and secretion by primary human dermal fibroblasts. The unique combination of biostimulation, compatibility with beauty product formulations and demonstrated commercial production, make this novel recombinant type III collagen a good candidate for broad application in the cosmetics industry.

Highlights

  • Collagen is the most abundant protein in the human body, present in connective tissue such as cartilage, bones, tendons, ligaments and skin [1]

  • COL3A1 gene codon optimized for expression in Pichia pastoris

  • The circular plasmid was linearized and transformed into Pichia pastoris cells and transformants were selected on Cosmetics 2022, 8, x FOR PEER REVIEW

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Summary

Introduction

Collagen is the most abundant protein in the human body, present in connective tissue such as cartilage, bones, tendons, ligaments and skin [1]. It assembles into fibers that form the structural and mechanical scaffold (matrix) of bone, skin, tendons, cornea, blood vessel walls and other connective tissues. Collagen type III is found in granulation tissue, artery walls, skin, intestines and the uterus [3,4,5]. Both collagen type I and III are fibrillar collagens that form higher order structures ( fibrils, fibers and bundles), but they have slightly different structural properties. The ratio of collagen type I/III correlates with skin aging and elasticity [6,7,8,9]

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