Abstract
This is a personal contemplation on the state of ocean wave measurement, historically, and with an eye toward the future. The conceptual basis which leads to the conventional wave measuring instruments has been in practice for over six decades which is basically single point observations of three-dimensional waves. We need new conceptual advancement and new instrumentation to rejuvenate our research in stagnation. New instruments for spatial wave measurement have been on the horizon.
Highlights
Some Historical ReflectionsFrom all indications, the earliest starting usage of a wave gage for wave measurement—a single point underwater apparatus to measure pressure fluctuations under the wave surface, as Barber (1969) [1] proudly puts it some years ago: “... was made in Britain about 1945”
One question that no one seems to be interested in asking at the present, is that why would the ocean wave studies community staying quiescent with the conventional conceptualization of single point wave measurement, no more conceptual advancement except to spring up various recording sensors at a single location over the last 50 years while technologies have progressed by leaps and bounds during the same time period? Isn’t it time for more realistic spatial wave measurement for true wave dynamics?
As we have indicated that the conventional single-point wave measurement has served us quite well
Summary
The earliest starting usage of a wave gage for wave measurement—a single point underwater apparatus to measure pressure fluctuations under the wave surface, as Barber (1969) [1] proudly puts it some years ago: “... was made in Britain about 1945”. Among them included a surface wave measuring instrument that was connected to a floating anchor built by William Froude circa 1867 (see Defant, 1961 [5]); and the various efforts in the early years of 20th century on successful usage of stereo photogrammetric pictures for sea surfaces as described in Sverdrup et al (1941) [6] and Titov (1969) [2]. Those stereo photogrammetric pictures in the early days are, merely snap shots of the instant ocean surface obtained after intensive and complicated processing. The height of World War II probably propelled the successful development of the Barber (1969) [1] described pressure wave gage in UK for getting an accurate estimate of wave heights at a given location needed for preparing Normandy landing operation, that conceptual innovation on wave measurement is still being used to this day
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