Abstract
The growing interest in the cosmetic industry in using compounds of natural and sustainable origin that are safe for humans is encouraging the development of processes that can satisfy these needs. Chlorogenic acid (CHA), caffeic acid (CAF) and ferulic acid (FA) are three compounds widely used within the cosmetic industry due to their functionalities as antioxidants, collagen modifiers or even as radiation protectors. In this work, two advanced separation techniques with supercritical CO2 are used to obtain these three compounds from Calendula officinalis, and these are then evaluated using a computational skin permeability model. This model is encompassed by the COSMO-RS model, the calculations of which make it possible to study the behaviour of the compounds in the epidermis. The results show that both CAF and FA are retained in the stratum corneum, while CHA manages to penetrate to the stratum spinosum. These compounds were concentrated by antisolvent fractionation with super-critical CO2 using a Response Surface Methodology to study the effect of pressure and CO2 flow rate. CHA, CAF and FA were completely retained in the precipitation vessel, with concentrations between 40% and 70% greater than in the original extract. The conditions predicted that the optimal overall yield and enrichment achieved would be 153 bar and 42 g/min.
Highlights
In recent years, there has been great interest in the cosmetic industry, among others, in including compounds of natural and sustainable origin in the formulation of products
The compartment with the largest resistance for caffeic acid (CAF) and ferulic acid (FA) is the stratum corneum, while for chlorogenic acid (CHA), the largest resistance is the stratum spinosum. This means that while for CAF and FA the stratum corneum is the main barrier in the penetration process, for CHA it manages to penetrate up to the stratum spinosum
Both CAF and FA prefer the trans-corneocyte route (RSC, inter >> RSC, trans ), while CHA prefers the transcellular route of the Stratum spinosum, called the interstitial matrix (RSC, inter
Summary
There has been great interest in the cosmetic industry, among others, in including compounds of natural and sustainable origin in the formulation of products. Calendula officinalis L., known as marigold, is an aromatic herbaceous plant that belongs to the genus Calendula (Asteraceae), native to the Mediterranean countries. This genus includes approximately 25 species, of which C. officinalis is the only one used extensively clinically worldwide [1], traditionally as a skin remedy for dermatological problems, such as inflamed skin, redness, minor burns, or ulcers, as well as for acne or fungal eruptions [2]. Studies have demonstrated these properties, which have been duly collected in various monographs such as those by the European Scientific Cooperative On Phytotherapy (ESCOP), the European Medicines Agency (EMA) or the World
Sign-in/Register to view highlights & summary Sign-in/Register to access full text options 
Free) 
Talk to us
Join us for a 30 min session where you can share your feedback and ask us any queries you have
Schedule a call
