Abstract

A comprehensive study of swash-zone sediment transport was conducted on a macro-tidal beach in Perranporth, UK. The unique study is the first to simultaneously measure suspended sediment and sheet flow sediment concentrations and near bed velocity on a natural beach. Data collected during the study will be used to address the importance of sheet flow processes on swash zone sediment transport and morphology, the variability in the near bed velocity profile and the importance of alongshore and vertical flows, cross-shore advection of turbulence and the inference of swash zone forcing and momentum transfer from remotely sensed data.

Highlights

  • Understanding nearshore sediment transport requires knowledge of the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes occurring across a range of temporal and spatial scales

  • As a culmination of the collaborative efforts initiated during the workshop, a first-of-its-kind Beach Sediment Transport (BeST) study that simultaneously measured instantaneous water depth, velocity profiles, turbulent kinetic energy, sediment concentration from the at-rest bed up through the water column and inter-swash morphological change was conducted in October 2011 to address these key swash-zone processes

  • 1:45 near the main instrument bar that is roughly coincident with mean high water (MHW)

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Summary

Introduction

Understanding nearshore sediment transport requires knowledge of the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes occurring across a range of temporal and spatial scales. Swash-zone sediment transport is generally studied using current meters and optical backscatter sensors (Masselink et al 2005; Puleo et al 2000) that are designed for suspended load (supported by turbulent fluctuations).

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