Comparison between a wax/volatile oil mixture and vegetable butters in a long-lasting make-up formula: A rheological and structural study compared to product performance

Charlène Hubert,Pascal Panizza,Cristelle Meriadec,Hélène De Clermont-Gallerande,Franck Artzner

doi:10.1051/ocl/2020035

Abstract

The long-lasting make-up was created to avoid migration of the product on the skin throughout the day. Currently, the formulation technology most commonly used to obtain it is based on the use of film-forming agents with volatile oils. However, with the growing trend in natural cosmetics, petroleum-based volatile compounds are increasingly being abandoned. The objective of this study is to determine whether a mixture of plant-based butters can be chosen to replace a mixture of volatile oil and synthetic wax in a long-lasting eyeshadow. Initial comparisons were made between two jojoba butters and a wax/volatile oil mixture in order to identify the best candidate to replace the latter. Then, the best candidate was incorporated into formula and finished formulas were compared using sensory evaluation, rheology and X-ray scattering. The results show that it is possible to preserve texture, rheological properties and structural organization of a formula by replacing a wax/oil mixture with vegetable butters. However, this does not mean that the formulas will behave the same on the eyelids over time. This work illustrates the real complexity faced by formulators when they must replace one raw material with another while guaranteeing the durability of all the product’s properties. This challenge is more relevant today as consumer demand for products based on natural ingredients is growing.

Highlights

Make-up consumers often admit it, many of them have already had the bad experience of make-up that is applied onto the skin in the morning and disappears over the course of the day
The results of this study show that jojoba butters can be a good substitute for wax and volatile oil mixture in terms of texture, rheological properties and structural organization
In this study it was shown that it is conceivable to replace a mixture of high melting wax and volatile oil with a mixture of jojoba butters because the textures and classical rheological properties are very similar

Summary

Introduction

Make-up consumers often admit it, many of them have already had the bad experience of make-up (eyeshadow, foundation, lipstick) that is applied onto the skin in the morning and disappears over the course of the day To avoid this type of inconvenience, color cosmetic products with longlasting claims were created several decades ago. The most commonly used film-forming agents for cosmetic applications are those based on silicone and acrylate, but there are many others of synthetic origin and, increasingly, of natural origin (Bailey, 1971; Bentley, 1999; Rathke and Hudson, 2006) Whatever their origin and whether used alone or in combination, film formers are in most cases used with at least one volatile oil. The volatile oil is evaporated during the manufacturing process to obtain a powder, whereas in the wet method, the oil evaporates after each application to the skin

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