Abstract
PurposeThe aim of the study was to evaluate distinct performance indicators and energy system contributions in 3 different, new sport-specific finger flexor muscle exercise tests.MethodsThe tests included the maximal strength test, the all-out test (30 s) as well as the continuous and intermittent muscle endurance test at an intensity equaling 60% of maximal force, which were performed until target force could not be maintained. Gas exchange and blood lactate were measured in 13 experienced climbers during, as well as pre and post the test. The energy contribution (anaerobic alactic, anaerobic lactic, and aerobic) was determined for each test.ResultsThe contribution of aerobic metabolism was highest during the intermittent test (59.9 ± 12.0%). During continuous exercise, this was 28.1 ± 15.6%, and in the all-out test, this was 19.4 ± 8.1%. The contribution of anaerobic alactic energy was 27.2 ± 10.0% (intermittent), 54.2 ± 18.3% (continuous), and 62.4 ± 11.3% (all-out), while anaerobic lactic contribution equaled 12.9 ± 6.4, 17.7 ± 8.9, and 18.2 ± 9.9%, respectively.ConclusionThe combined analysis of performance predictors and metabolic profiles of the climbing test battery indicated that not only maximal grip force, but also all-out isometric contractions are equally decisive physical performance indices of climbing performance. Maximal grip force reflects maximal anaerobic power, while all-out average force and force time integral of constant isometric contraction at 60% of maximal force are functional measures of anaerobic capacity. Aerobic energy demand for the intermittent exercise is dominated aerobic re-phosphorylation of high-energy phosphates. The force-time integral from the intermittent test was not decisive for climbing performance.
Highlights
Sport climbing was included in the 2020 Olympic program due to the great increase in its popularity
In order to select appropriate exercise tests for climbers, one should be well-acquainted with specific load characteristics, performance limiting factors, and physiological aspects in climbing
The highest lactate concentrations (Lac) was noted after the intermittent test (2.17 ± 1.14 mmol·L−1), which was greater (p = 0.002) than that observed following the continuous test (0.89 ± 0.6 mmol·L−1)
Summary
Sport climbing was included in the 2020 Olympic program due to the great increase in its popularity. The highest climbing achievements performed on rocks and not during competitions have increased asymptotically in the last three decades (Michailov, 2014). Both facts indicate that climbing has reached an advanced stage of development. This places higher demands upon climbers’ preparation and requires monitoring as well as evaluating climbing-specific fitness to optimize training and further increase climbing performance. In order to select appropriate exercise tests for climbers, one should be well-acquainted with specific load characteristics, performance limiting factors, and physiological aspects in climbing
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