Choline chloride-based deep eutectic solvent as an inhibitor of metalloproteases (collagenase and elastase) in cosmetic formulation.

Abstract

Green chemistry and engineering are potential alternatives for achieving higher sustainability and lower generation of hazardous compounds in chemical product design, production, and use. Deep Eutectic Solvents (DES) are characterized as green solvents and have become increasingly attractive due to their characteristic design solvents. In this work, two DES (choline chloride (ChCl)/glycerol and ChCl/Urea), aqueous solutions of the DES-forming components, and green tea extracts obtained with DES were used as anti-ageing active in cosmetic products using in vitro tests to inhibit extracellular matrix metalloproteases (such as collagenase and elastase). Finally, the stability of the formulations with DES as a cosmetic active was also evaluated. The results showed that DES based on ChCl/Urea and ChCl/glycerol exhibited remarkable inhibition values of collagenase (91.1 and 92.7%, respectively) and elastase (49.8 and 45.7%, respectively). However, pure urea displayed better inhibition values (66%) for elastase, possibly due to its direct contribution to intramolecular hydrogen bonds. ChCl/glycerol showed remarkable stability in the average cube diameter values, which may indicate no change in the conformation of the micellar structure of the cosmetic formulation. Moreover, the formulation containing this DES remained stable at room temperature. Given the remarkable results, DES can be applied in cosmetic products for anti-ageing purposes.