Abstract
The chapter starts from random surface elevation as a function of space and time, and relevant velocity potential, for a sea state in an open sea. Some related concepts such as “homogeneous wave field” and related problems such as “the maximum expected wave height at a discrete number of points” are dealt with. The rest of the chapter is devoted to the directional spectrum. First, the classic method is shown, which is based on the Cartwright assumption on the directional distribution of each harmonic component. Then the chapter shows a recent method that does not need assumptions as to the shape of the directional distribution. The method requires only the time series data of the surface elevation at three points. Some subroutines to apply the new method, and a FORTRAN program to test the degree of effectiveness of the method with given directional spectra of arbitrary shape, are included and discussed.
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