Chapter 6 - Nanobiomaterials in galenic formulations and cosmetics

Abstract

All substances in the nanosized dimensions have new, unexpected properties, compared to their standard-size status, so offering enormous potential for innovative applications. In particular, their enhanced interactions with the skin could lead to new activity performances in cosmetic formulations. For this reason, a growing opinion is that nanotechnology ingredients will feed many key advanced technologies of this century concerning cosmetics. Up until now, the use of nanomaterials in cosmetics has cautiously taken place, mainly in the improvement of the efficacy of sunscreens. Other application fields succeeded in getting enhanced sensorial perceptions thanks to nanomaterial use, while obtaining delicate ingredient stabilization has been another finalized application. One very promising field being investigated is the tailor-made controlled release of active ingredients, in order to obtain their more efficient transdermal delivery. Two main approaches are adopted in the production of nanomaterials suitable for cosmetics. With the “bottom-up” system, nanomaterials are built by starting from molecular components which are chemically/physically assembled: liposomes, solid lipid nanoparticles, polymeric nanocapsules are examples of this strategy. The other system is the “top-down” approach, where nano-objects are constructed starting from larger entities. This is the case of UV filters, TiO2 and ZnO, of pigments like carbon black or fillers, such as the SPF enhancer hydroxyapatite. If the first approach does not pose concerns for cosmetic safety, questions arise about nanosized materials created with the top-down technology concerning their possible risks to human health. The new European Regulation on cosmetics (1223/2009) and, recently, the new FDA guidelines, address some precise concerns over nanomaterials. In this chapter, cosmetic formulation, technological and regulatory aspects in the cosmetic field are discussed in depth.