Changes in the production materials of Burmese textiles in the nineteenth century—dyes, mordants and fibres of Karen garments from the British Museum’s collection

Abstract

The materials of six Karen textiles from the British Museum’s collection were investigated with the main aim of studying the production changes over the course of the nineteenth century and how these changes related to local and colonial trade networks. The textiles span chronologically from the 1830s to the early 1900s according to their attribution dates, and include traditional garments such as tunics and skirts, in addition to representing a broad colour palette and different dyeing and weaving techniques. The investigation was conducted non-invasively by using digital microscopy, broadband multispectral imaging (MSI) and fibre optic reflectance spectroscopy (FORS). The results guided a sampling campaign during which samples were taken and investigated by optical microscopy (OM), scanning electron microscopy energy dispersive X-ray spectrometry (SEM–EDX) and high-performance liquid chromatography coupled to diode array detector and tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC–DAD-MS/MS). Local natural dyes, such as red and yellow from Morinda citrifolia, lac dye (Kerria lacca), gamboge (Garcinia sp.), turmeric (Curcuma longa), indigo and tannins were found in the older textiles, supporting a possible early production, whereas mixtures of natural and synthetic dyes, including synthetic alizarin (CI 58000), rhodamine B (CI 45170), orange I (CI 14600), diamond green B (CI 42000), diamond green G (CI 42040), auramine O (CI 41000), naphthol yellow S (CI 10316), chrysamine G (CI 22250), crystal violet (CI 42555) and Pigment Red 53:1 (CI 15585:1) were identified in the later textiles. Observations on mordants revealed the use of aluminium, tin and chrome, whereas fibre characterisation highlighted the use not only of cotton (Gossypium sp.) but also of felted wool imported from Europe and Chinese silk dyed with the Chinese cork tree (Phellodendron chinense) yellow dye. The results draw an interesting picture of the introduction of new dyeing materials and techniques in Myanmar over the nineteenth century, and how these impacted the production of traditional Karen textiles.