Abstract

Maps and analyzes the development of ethnic Chinese food in the city of Antwerp through the ethnography of both Chinese immigrant entrepreneurs and their customers. Most existing studies draw our attention to group characteristics in explaining Chinese immigrant small businesses, predominantly clustered in the catering sector. Some studies examining Chinese immigrants and the development of the catering sector adopt a mixed model of group characteristics and opportunity structures in the broader society. Looks into a hitherto unexplored terrain, namely the relation between the white customer and the immigrant entrepreneur. Such an in‐depth analysis “from within” instructs us about the dynamics of the immigrant/ethnic restaurant business. From the perspective of the immigrant entrepreneur, immigrant/ethnic restaurants provide in many instances an avenue to social mobility, thereby overcoming the general constraints facing immigrants such as insufficient financial capital, low educational levels, linguistic handicap, etc. The economic advancement is the success side, whereas the success has a series of social costs. The social exchange is fraught with ambivalence, which in its most extreme manifestation may turn into what Frank Chin calls “food pornography”. The two dimensions both present in Chinese immigrant restaurant ventures for they provide opportunities with a series of social costs.

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