Bore-like surf beat in a reef zone caused by wave groups of incident short period waves

Abstract

Resonant oscillation of sea surface elevation in coral reef zones is asserted to be excited by the change of radiation stress and breaking point due to the wave groups of incident short period waves. Numerical and laboratory experiments confirmed the generation of long period oscillation and its nonlinear deformation into the "bore-like or tsunami-like surf beat" with a steep forward face. A resonance diagram is prepared for a design criterion.