Balamuts as Traditional Ukrainian Jewelry of the 19th – Early 21st Centuries

Abstract

The purpose of the research is to determine the sources of inspiration and artistic features of balamuts in Ukrainian folk costumes of the 19th – early 21st centuries. Research methods are ontological, hermeneutic, axiological, historical-genetic, historical-chronological, comparative, socio-cultural, iconographic, and art analysis. The research toolkit is designed to help understand the sources of inspiration and artistic features of balamuts in Ukrainian folk costumes. The scientific novelty is based on the introduction into scientific circulation of the essence of the concept of “balamut” in Ukrainian jewelry of the 19th – early 21st centuries, in particular, wedding jewelry. Conclusions. Since ancient times, it has been customary to wear pearls in the territory of modern Ukraine, and following the Hellenic-Scythian and Byzantine fashion, it was first among men. Pearls were part of the initiation jewelry of representatives of the elites of Sassanid Iran from the time of Shapur I, who ruled in the 3rd century. AD, and Shapur II (ruled in the 4th century), and gradually became part of the culture of the Greek colonies of the Crimea and the Black Sea. Pearls from the time of antiquity were a sign of initiation stems (at first, ribbons decorated with round and teardrop-shaped pearls, and later on hoops – crown-like diadems). After the first centuries after the birth of Christ, these accessories, which replaced the laurel wreaths of pagan times, became part of the complete image of the Roman emperor. Thus, as early as the 4th century, the son of Constantine the Great, Emperor Constantius II (337–361), wore a diadem with a pearl base, modeled after the Sassanid coronation ornaments. Justinian the Great, an Illyrian by origin, in 548 was depicted wearing a crown with prependulis and a fibula with pearls, later pearls firmly became part of the coronation accessories of the following dynasties of Byzantine rulers, who had both eastern (primarily Persian and Armenian) and western (Balkan) roots. Taking into account that in several centuries the heiresses of Byzantine emperors began to marry Kievan Russian princes, this tradition of using pearls gradually became part of local customs. So, already in the 10th century Svyatoslav, the son of Igor and Olga, wore a colt with pearls and a red garnet in his ear. Later pearls, including fossilized, fossil, made from a thick layer of mother-of-pearl of ancient shells (balamuts) from the 19th century gradually became part of Ukrainian wedding outfits.