Assessment of chemical elements in cosmetics' eyeshadows by X‐ray fluorescence and International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients characterization

Abstract

Energy dispersive X‐ray fluorescence (EDXRF) technique, as a qualitative and quantitative analysis, was used for inorganic chemical elements determination (K, S, Cl, Al, Si, Ca, Ti, Mn, Fe, Pb, Zn, Rb, and Bi) in eyeshadows for safe human use. International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients standardized nomenclature was used for labels investigation to obtain data on legal regularity. Data of 23 samples were clustered by similarity, measuring relative concentrations of detected chemical elements. Calculating the correlation among such values, a similarity matrix was used to generate a dendrogram. Pb was found in samples silver color S12E and copper color S22I above permissible limits (20 μg/g). Same composition was reported for the pink (S01A), black (S02A), and brown (S03A) samples, but the same chemical elements were not detected by EDXRF in them. The best correlation was found between samples S08D and S23 J (0.961). The least correlation was 0.0012 between S01A and S12E. The clustering analysis showed 7 groups of similar samples according to EDXRF data. Relations among 6 eyeshadows' colors and chemical compositions were discovered by using decision trees, where the most determinant elements were Mn, S, Cl, Ca, and Fe, in this order. Commercial regularization and International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients standardization of eyeshadows in Brazil are not fully complied by the manufacturers of the investigated brands.