Abstract
Ascorbic acid or vitamin C is a strong antioxidant widely used in cosmetic and food fields. This vitamin is very unstable and rapidly undergoes degradation. In order to solve this problem and to obtain a stable ascorbic acid, Nikkol Group has developed ascorbyltetraisopalmitate (VC-IP). This raw material is an oil phase, already well-known and employed in the cosmetic market. The objective of this study is to obtain VC-IP in micro-powder form, in order to produce a new raw material that is easily dispersible in oil and water phases and useful for make-up and color cosmetic applications. Various types of drug carriers were studied and considered in order to support VC-IP and obtain the conversion in powder. Υ-cyclodextrin and mesoporous silica SBA-15 were chosen as the best candidates. A white powder of supported VC-IP was obtained with each carrier (VC-IP@cyclodextrin, VC-IP@SBA-15). The systems underwent physicochemical characterization and in vitro release tests were carried out. Based on the conducted study, it can be concluded that by supporting VC-IP on Υ-cyclodextrin and SBA-15, it is feasible to obtain a new raw material in powder form. The two carriers possess different release profiles, adding the possibility to finely tune the release of the active component in smart formulations.
Highlights
Vitamin C is a natural anti-aging and whitening bioactive ingredient that has been widely used in cosmetic and dermatological products thanks to its favorable effects on the skin [1], which include radicals scavenging, collagen biosynthesis, and the suppression melanin formation [2,3,4,5]
The spectrum recorded on the gamma-cyclodextrin after the contact with vitamin C ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (VC-IP) was significantly different from that of the pristine cyclodextrin matrix treated in the same way
In the differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) curve of the complex, only the signals of the cyclodextrin were present, suggesting a good interaction between the matrix and the VC-IP [19], which probably enhances the thermal stability of the active ingredient
Summary
Vitamin C is a natural anti-aging and whitening bioactive ingredient that has been widely used in cosmetic and dermatological products thanks to its favorable effects on the skin [1], which include radicals scavenging, collagen biosynthesis, and the suppression melanin formation [2,3,4,5]. The strong antioxidant properties and the ability to prevent skin aging make ascorbic acid, known as vitamin C, one of the most interesting active ingredients for the cosmetic industry. VC-IP (Figure 1) is stable at high temperatures and has good solubility in oils. It exhibits excellent percutaneous absorption and effectively converts into free vitamin C in the skin to perform various physiological functions [8,9]
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