Abstract
Characterising spatial and temporal variations in coastal behaviour is essential for the management of beach systems. Recent studies have shown that beach response is more complex in coasts subjected to bimodal wave directions. Despite being pervasive at higher latitudes, relatively little is known about the spatial variability in the response of mixed sand and gravel beaches. This work presents evidence that the response of mixed sand and gravel beaches to bimodal wave directions can be highly variable (both in magnitude and direction of change) even within short shoreline stretches. The analyses focused on beach topography data collected between 2009 and 2018 along five cross-shore transects within a 2-km-long shoreline in Suffolk (East England) and offshore wave data recorded at the West Gabbard Smart buoy. The dominant offshore wave direction oscillates between the southwest and the northeast from year to year, and the bimodal beach sediment has modes at 0.35 mm and 16 mm. Analyses were undertaken considering two timeframes: Biannual surveys from January 2009 to February 2018, and more intensive surveying (from seasonal to pre- and post-storm) from July 2016 to March 2018. Results highlighted large differences in beach response even between transects 350 m apart and no clear seasonal pattern of change. Instead, response seemed to depend on a complex interaction between wave power, dominant wave direction, and local settings. Although correlations were identified between indicators of beach change and wave conditions, these varied across transects. Divergence of longshore transport may occur locally, likely influencing the high alongshore variability.
Highlights
Understanding how beaches change in space and time and how they respond to driving forces is crucial for coastal planning and risk management [1,2,3]
The analysis of all cross-shore profiles measured between January 2009 and February 2018 (Figure 4) indicated a very dynamic system with large variations in the magnitudes and direction of changes within the 2-km-long shoreline covered by the five transects
This study demonstrated the large alongshore variability in beach response that can exist within a short stretch of a mixed sand and gravel coast subjected to the same offshore wave conditions
Summary
Understanding how beaches change in space and time and how they respond to driving forces is crucial for coastal planning and risk management [1,2,3]. The effects of different drivers of coastal change and local conditions are relatively well-explored in sandy [6,7] and gravel [8,9,10] coasts, considerably less evidence is available for mixed sand and gravel (MSG) beaches. Gravel and sand behave differently with hydrodynamic forcing, adding complexity to the beach response in comparison to pure sand or gravel systems [11]. Sediment transport and morphodynamic models are dominantly designed and validated for sandy [12,13,14,15,16] and gravel [17,18] coasts and rarely for applications in MSG beaches [19].
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