Abstract

Two-dimensional scaled physical tests were carried out in the Hydraulics Laboratory wave tank of the University of Porto in order to more accurately understand the effect of submerged breakwaters on wave-induced velocities and pressure fields. The slow-varying pressures acting normally on the slope were simultaneously measured with the flow-induced velocities at the surface, and an analysis of their distribution along the whole structure-on the front slopes, rear slopes and along the crown-was done as this information is considered potentially useful for hydraulic design. Different points on the breakwater model were considered and diverse wave conditions were tested, allowing study of the dependency of pressures/velocities on model characteristics. Maximum, minimum and mean phase-averaged values of these variables were calculated, allowing the detection of potentially sensitive areas in terms of pressure and velocities at the surface. A spectral analysis of these physical variables was also perfomed in order to check the results obtained with the regular wave tests.

Highlights

  • Due to human intervention and natural processes erosion is affecting coasts all over the world

  • A spectral analysis of these physical variables was perfomed in order to check the results obtained with the regular wave tests

  • It was found that the wave-induced dynamic pressure in the point P1 was considerably higher than the one found in the point located immediately above

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Summary

Introduction

Due to human intervention and natural processes erosion is affecting coasts all over the world. For that reason coastal works are needed, and submerged breakwaters offer part of the solution since they act as a barrier to the coastline, decreasing the direct wave action on the coast and the risk of erosion. In this case, environmental and aesthetic impacts are minimized when compared with the use of conventional emerged detached breakwaters, since they are constructed with low crest levels which allow overtopping and some water/sediment circulation along the shoreline. In-line dynamic wave forces (obtained by summing the in-line dynamic wave pressure components around the cylinder) were found to have similar behaviour, showing exponential decay

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