Accuracy and Adequacy of "Long Swell" Forecast and Watch Model

Abstract

Long swell which attacked Toyama Bay from February 23 to 24, 2008, serious damaged breakwaters at Fushiki-Toyama Port. We used the wave prediction model which considered data assimilation to predict offshore wave. And we calculated wave transformation in a shallow water using Boussinesq-type wave transformation model (NOWT-PARI for short). We combined these both of them and built the prediction model of Long Swell at Fushiki-Toyama Port. To improve the precision of the made prediction model of Long Swell, we built the wave watch system. We showed that a prediction of Long-Swell is possible to use wave prediction model and a wave watch system.