Abstract
Polyphenols are known dietary antioxidants. They have recently attracted considerable interest in uses to prevent skin aging and hyperpigmentation resulting from solar UV-irradiation. Prunus persica (L.) leaves are considered by-products and were reported to have a remarkable antioxidant activity due to their high content of polyphenols. This study aimed at the development of a cosmeceutical anti-aging and skin whitening cream preparation using ethanol leaves extract of Prunus persica (L.) (PPEE) loaded in solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) to enhance the skin delivery. Chemical investigation of PPEE showed significantly high total phenolic and flavonoids content with notable antioxidant activities (DPPH, ABTS, and β-carotene assays). A unique acylated kaempferol glycoside with a rare structure, kaempferol 3-O-β-4C1-(6″-O-3,4-dihydroxyphenylacetyl glucopyranoside) (KDPAG) was isolated for the first time and its structure fully elucidated. It represents the first example of acylation with 3,4-dihydroxyphenyl acetic acid in flavonoid chemistry. The in-vitro cytotoxicity studies against a human keratinocytes cell line revealed the non-toxicity of PPEE and PPEE-SLNs. Moreover, PPEE, PPEE-SLNs, and KDPAG showed good anti-elastase activity, comparable to that of N-(Methoxysuccinyl)-Ala-Ala-Pro-Val-chloromethyl ketone. Besides, PPEE-SLNs and KDPAG showed significantly (p < 0.001) higher anti-collagenase and anti-tyrosinase activities in comparison to EDTA and kojic acid, respectively. Different PPEE-SLNs cream formulae (2% and 5%) were evaluated for possible anti-wrinkle activity against UV-induced photoaging in a mouse model using a wrinkle scoring method and were shown to offer a highly significant protective effect against UV, as evidenced by tissue biomarkers (SOD) and histopathological studies. Thus, the current study demonstrates that Prunus persica leaf by-products provide an interesting, valuable resource for natural cosmetic ingredients. This provides related data for further studying the potential safe use of PPEE-SLNs in topical anti-aging cosmetic formulations with enhanced skin permeation properties.
Highlights
Skin aging is a complex multifactorial progressive process that catalyzes physical changes in skin and connective tissue [1]
Overexposure to UV radiation stimulates the overproduction of reactive oxygen species (ROS) which results in endogenous oxidative stress in skin tissues leading to degradation of the extracellular matrix (ECM) components
PPEE was found to possess promising anti-aging activities by its capacities to inhibit DPPH, ABST, β-carotene oxidation, elastase, collagenase, and tyrosinase which may be correlated to its high phenolic and flavonoid content
Summary
Skin aging is a complex multifactorial progressive process that catalyzes physical changes in skin and connective tissue [1]. It is classified into intrinsic and extrinsic aging. ECM degradation is directly linked to skin aging and is responsible for the increase in activity of certain enzymes such as collagenase, elastase, and tyrosinase that are involved in skin aging. These dermal enzyme activations cause a decrease in the levels of elastin, and collagen which leads to loss of elasticity and strength of skin and the appearance of wrinkles [3]. Induction of excessive melanin production and skin tanning results in hyperpigmentation of the skin
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