A study on reflection pattern of swells from the shoreline of peninsular India

Abstract

Information on reflected surface gravity waves from the shoreline is required for understanding the coastal hydrodynamics. We have quantified the reflected swells (frequency band 0.045–0.12 Hz) from the west and east coast of India based on the spectral wave data derived from the directional waverider buoys. Reflection coefficient, ratio of the reflected and incident spectral energy, was used to quantify the reflected waves. Influence of the seasons, cyclone, relative depth, land/sea breeze, tides and tidal current on the reflected waves were examined. For the locations off the west coast of India, seasons have large impact on the reflection coefficient and were relatively less during the monsoon season due to the increase in incident wave energy. Locations off the east coast of India show almost the same reflection coefficient throughout the year and have no significant seasonal variations. The reflection coefficient off Puducherry was higher than that for other locations due to the low incident wave energy. The reflection coefficient was low during the cyclone period, but the reflected energy during cyclone was higher than that during the normal condition due to the high incident wave energy. High-energy reflected waves show large variation with tide due to the trapping and dissipation of reflected wave by bottom friction and this effect cause low reflection in deep water location than shallow water location. The reflection coefficient decreases with increase in relative depth off west coast of India.