A Gift of Lace: Queen Mary’s Coronation Train, 1911

Abstract

This paper is concerned with the context of the commissioning and the making of a Youghal lace coronation train, its ‘artistic beauty’, as well as the confusion about where it was worn and its ‘associations’ which, when it was made, displayed and worn, were diverse and complicated. The lace train began its material life in the Presentation Convent in Youghal in the south of Ireland, but had been commissioned then gifted to Queen Mary by the unionist ‘ladies’ of Belfast. Once made, it was exhibited in Belfast and London before its delivery to Buckingham Palace in time for the queen’s departure for India where, according to a number of published accounts, it was to be worn by Queen Mary in the ceremonies surrounding the Delhi Durbar; it was, in fact, worn in Calcutta. Considered one of the most magnificent examples of Irish needlepoint lace ever made, it expressed the loyalty of unionist women, but in its crafting it alluded to the space of nationalist women. The object highlights the workings of the Youghal Lace Cooperative that functioned in much the same way as do today’s fair trade networks (securing markets, returning profits to artisans), while at the same time the object speaks of social relationships, contested spaces, political tensions and agency.