A generalized approach for long-term modelling of extreme crest-to-trough wave heights

Abstract

This paper deals with the long-term modelling of high sea waves. The solution is given for the return period of sea storms during which an arbitrary chosen number of waves, with crest-to-trough heights exceeding a fixed threshold, occur. This return period is derived starting from the Equivalent Triangular Storm (ETS) model, which associates a triangle to each actual storm and thus represents a significant wave height time series at a fixed location by means of a sequence of triangular storms. The short-term statistics is then applied to investigate the occurrence of large crest-to-trough wave heights during a given storm. Finally, by combining the statistical distribution of significant wave heights, the ETS model and the short-term wave statistics, the solution is given for the return periods R N and R ⩾ N of a sea storm in which N or at least N waves higher than a fixed threshold occur. The values of R N are then calculated, starting from data of two buoys moored in the Pacific Ocean and in the Mediterranean Sea.